The final sprint home

 

This sprint to the finish I have sailed more than 25 times so I knew my way home but did I know the weather and what was waiting on the route?

The weather forecast showed that a good NE wind would be blowing on the Saturday and reach 25 to 30 knots during the nights but it was with me and the current was also in my favour.  The speed to beat was 9.5 over the ground set off Port Stephens in the last leg and I knew I would easily do this on this leg.

Now this is 160 nm at about 6 knots that would take a day and a half at most.  I moved from the Fish Market and sailed over to Middle Harbour and picked up a mooring right along the shoreline.  The local yacht club was having a sponsors race so it was filled with yachts and very smart crew not sitting on the rail but holding a glass of the local bubble stuff or on some real champagne.

I had prepared a few nights meals and tucked into one as the sun set.  Again I set the alarm for before dawn and when it went off I was off and running with one reef in the main and a poled out genoa.

I soon cleared the heads and set a course past Port Botany and directly to the Sir John Banks banks to the north of Jervis Bay.  Now my normal course going north is inside the banks and under normal conditions I would go 5 nm out to sea from the banks to get round the very rough conditions associated with the great East Australian current hitting the shallow banks which come up from 120 m to less than 12 meters.  You can imaging the turbulence as this stream of water flowing from 2 to 4 knots hits the shallow water of rocks.

I have passed this point many times before and in many wind conditions but this time was an a different experience.  The wind had increased and the waves while not ocean swells size were quite big but nothing Malua’s autopilot could not handle but the confused seas were something else to behold.  They seem to come from every direction.  Breaking over the bow, stern and even jumping on board from the port side.  A tug steaming north call on the radio a similar company tug seaming south to have a chat then asked why he was so close to the banks and he should turn more out to sea.  I was tracking him on the AIS all the way down the coast and immediately after the communication he turned and headed out to sea for calmer waters.  I staid my course.

I was committed so I continued knowing Malua was on a roll and I had beaten the top speed record when I reached 10.8 knots SOG.  Decision again.  Should I continue and reach Bermagui during the night because now at 5:30pm I would arrive at dawn or even predawn and I would have to wait till the sun was up to enter the Bermi river mouth with a raging NE wind and swell.  I, as always, took the prudent decision and jibes at the entrance to Jervis Bay in the lee of Point Perpendicular and steamed into 25 knots of wind to the northern shore of the bay at Long Beach to take a break.  I arrived after dark to find a catamaran with all lights on and a much smaller sailing vessel anchored near the shore.  I have thrown the pick in this area before so I knew that one had to drag the anchor in because it often got fouled on sea grass.  With the strong wind and a depth of 10 meter I let out the normal 40 meter and started to pull back on the anchor but it kept coming.  So up anchor and I immediately noticed the SQR had speared a cockle shell right at the tip so it would not hold.  Up to the bow with the hammer to release the shell and start again.  Down went the chain and I pulled back.  The SQR and 50 m of chain held and I set the anchor alarm and proceeded to get Malua ready for the next leg of the journey.

Alarm went off at dawn – no point in early start as I only had about 80 nm to run to Bermagui.  I checked the latest weather forecast and BOM indicated that the wind would reach 35 knots along the Batemans and Eden coast.  The temptation was to wait and see what the next day would bring.  On this occasion prudence did not make a planning decision but when I set sail I did put two reefs in the main and furled the genoa on a pole well before I exited the calm but windy Jervis Bay.

I flew out of the Bay and headed for a straight line for Montague knowing I would be about 10 nm off shore and well in the southern flowing current and the ocean swells that accompanied two days of strong wind.  Little did I know what the ocean had in store for me off Batemans Bay and further south.

I had kept the boom on the starboard side as the wind was from the NE but as I sailed further south the distance from the coast got more and more as I tried to not have to jibe in the current conditions.  Malua was handling the swell and wind well although it was obvious that I had too much sail up and I was about to do a jibe.  I prepared to jibe by undoing the preventer and moving it to the port side then started to pull the main in via the electric sheet winch.  At the critical point I turned the auto pilot to turn to starboard and the wind got behind the sail and it came over – not with the bang I expected but with a genital flop.  Out went the sheet, correct the course and connect the preventer and we were off and running again but this time the waves had built to 4 or 5 meters .  I know it is difficult to estimate the height of the sea as one faces down a water slope with the horizon almost completely covered in spray but on this occasion I knew the sea was big as a crest rolled down the hill and right into Malua’s cockpit.  No water down below (washboards in) but it wet my granny seat!

The autopilot alarm went off as I sat in the captain chair and watched the dials and wind speed indicator.  On the second occasion even with two reefs in the main and no sail for of the mast I knew we were over-canvased.  What to do with only 40 nm to go to Bermagui.  So I stepped into the cockpit and took control of Malua as we surfed down the face of the waves and swell.  I have not done this oftem and had not realised the effort it takes to keep a long keeled boat on trach with too much sail up.  Malua wanted to round up into the wind as we reached the botton of the swell so one has to anticipate what will happen.  With all my effort on the large wheel I lent on the spokes and kept the bow on course and down the waves.  This continues for a while and then the wind started to ease and the autopilot took over.  We settled down for the final straight to the finish but there was more to come.

What to do was the decision to be made.  Continue to head for Bermagui and a potentially dangerous bar entrance with seas breaking over the entrance or slow down and wait for either the wind to drop or sail on to Eden.  Now I am a great supporter of technology but my confidence in NSW Maritime is very very low so when I fired up the computer and switched to the NSW Maritime Bar camera for Bermagui and saw a small swell with about 17 knots of wind I thought they must be playing yesterdays video.  I stuck my head outside and yes the wind indicator showed 35 knots of wind and the sea and swell big SO what was going on.  I again checked the Windy app at a more detailed resolution and saw that there was a patch of calm wind along the coast which I had never seen before.  What is going on?

I set a course close to Montague so that I could drop the main in the lee of the island but as I approached the island the wind started to drop from 35 knots to 20 knots and then in the 15 knot range.  The Maritime bar camera could be right.  I phoned a friend.  “Can you tell me what the Bermagui bar is like?”  Sorry I am 20 km away.  My second lifeline did not answer so I thought maybe windy app was right. there is a pressure difference along the coast as a system moves north.  Take a chance and go for it.

About one mile off the entrance I turned up wind into 12 knots of wind and a moderate sea and swell and took the main down, furled the genoa and staysail and put in the washboards again to cross the bar.  I have a course I use which takes a curve towards the beach then moves west of the leads and come in as close to the western break-wall as I feel safe.  I adjust my speed to try to time a lull in the swell.  I saw my chance and increased the engine revs and held the wheel with both hands as I aimed for my entry course.  As I passed the headland I looked up and saw a few people standing watching me enter.  Peter S holding his camera.  The below photos is thanks to Peter.  One of the most dramatic shots of Malua that has been taken.

I entered the harbour, lowered the fenders and made sure all the prepared docking lines where ready and headed for my berth.  A group of friends: Jim, Keith and Peter were ready to take my lines as Malua nosed into her berth.  We were home.  The whole trip had been a sailing success with nothing on the boat breaking.  A great result.  Malua had lived up to the reputation of the great thoroughbred horse from Tasmania.

Malua the Thoroughbred

Malua, as you may well know, is a famous Australian horse born in Tasmania. The horse Malua was the most versatile Australian thoroughbred racehorse in history.  Malua won over distances ranging from 5+1⁄2 furlongs to 3+1⁄4 miles (1,100 – 5,200 metres).  The term "Malua's track" was coined to name that portion of the Flemington Racecourse where he showed excellence and speed.

In 1884 he won the Melbourne cup.  Carrying 9 st 9 lb (61 kg; 135 lb)  In 1888 he was switched to jumping, not so unusual in those days and he won the VRC Grand National Hurdle.  He then had a very successful stud career.

Malua was inducted into the Australian Racing Hall of Fame in 2003.  In the suburb of Ormond in Melbourne, there is a street named after the great horse (Malua Street).  A memorial to Malua was erected and opened in October 2009 in the Deloraine Museum, in the town where he was born.

With that pedigree front of mind, I set off from Bundaberg on my way home to Bermagui.  To say Malua had the bit between it's teeth would be an understatement as we flew south with the wind behind us.

I left Bundaberg at about 4:30 am to try to make the tide at narrows in the north of great Sandy Strait to the south of Fraser Island.  Eye Candy also left Bundaberg early and was in hot pursuit but fail to catch me as I entered the shallows at Sheridan Flats just one hour after the top of the tide.

I had my track going north as a guide and tried to follow that as best as I could but turned to port when I should have turned to starboard and nearly went aground.  When through the shallow it was on with a race towards the entrance at the wide bay bar.  I had to stop for the night to wait for the next mornings tide.  The following morning the high tide was at 1300 with the tide rising or flowing into the great sandy straits.  Not the best scenario for a quick exit.

I arrived at the sea entrance of the wide bay bar near Tin Can Bay at about noon and immediately hit the incoming stream full on.  My speed dropped to 2.5 knots and Malua battled against the wind and short chop.  It was a battle to make headway to the virtual way-points some miles out to sea but still behind the bar.  The wind at about 20 knots at this time was almost on the nose, the swell small but short so Malua took every hurdle in her stride as we made our way towards the finishing line of the bar.

On reaching the bar we turned to starboard and up came the main as we started to lengthen the stride for the next finish at the Gold Coast Seaway entrance. That was about 135 nm or 24 hours at 6 knots.

The sun set but no moon rose as we continued south.  The wind started to head south so by 2:00 am it was a full on beat into very confused sea and many large vessels wanting to come inside me (shoreside) as I raced south.  About 3 hour before dawn the wind and rain started – not a light rain but a full-on down pour which reduced my visibility to a few miles.

I was now abeam of Brisbane with large ships entering and exiting the seaway and five trawlers steaming north.  With all their lights on it is easy to sea them but one can not make out their steaming lights (Red and Green) so you don't know in which direction they are travelling.  They do not have any AIS signal and don't listen on VHF Channel 16 so there is no response to calling them.  It is just get out of their way.

I was keeping a good watch but out of no where a well lit trawler appears not 100 m from my port bow.  I turned the wheel and held my breath expecting to catch the keel on the net towed behind but thankfully Malua continued to race south averting that fence and off to the finish line.  Here the tide was in my favour but the sea was very confused as it crossed the shallows of the Seaway entrance.  I made it through and turned to port towards the Seaworld anchorage.  Bums Bay I understand, but I dropped the anchor attached to a nice shiny galvanised chain in sand with about 4 m of depth under the keel.

After stowing the sails in the cover and clearing up it was time for a shower and a well deserved beer.  Food then off to bed….

No need to go ashore and re-provision, I just had to wait for the right from the north to sail south.  This leg would be the longest but easy if the wind was  from behind and the current running south.

I did not have to wait long for the right weather forecast for this leg to sail to the next resting stage which was 400 nm away – that is almost 3 days at 6 knots.

Winter is here and I sailed north

 When the temperature in Canberra get to -6 C Yes minus six then it is time to get on Malua and sail north to warmer waters.

That is exactly what I did but the wind Gods had not got the change of seasons right so the wind continued to blow from the north. The direction I wanted to go.  This delayed the trip by some weeks while I spent a lot of time looking at the weather forecast.  On the days  that I was able to sail north I made the best of the wind and made miles north.

Denny arrived at Mackay via the big bird and we set off for points north

Our first stop was at Brampton Island which we had flow into in 1972 with 8 other Armidale friends during our flying circuit of Australia.  We walked on the airstrip and visited the now closed resort.  The resort was hit by the tropical cyclone a few years ago and the sand and water came right up into the bedrooms.  The furniture has been removed but the sand still remains.  The current owners can not get planning permission to rebuild because of all the regulations.

We left Brampton and day sailed along the island chain towards Airlie Beach because it was obvious that the RIB I had so carefully restored was coming apart and filling with water. Furthermore the two outboard engines - one two stoke the other four stoke objected at being associated with the sinking RIB and refused to start or restart when we were on the beach.  They came very close to joining the previous outboards in Dave Jones Locker but saved themselves for the time being.

At Airlie Beach I purchased a new 4 stroke 8HP Yamaha outboard and had it delivered to the wharf but I could not collect it because of the RIB was not totally coming apart.  Next was the purchase of a RIB.  Now I have to admit I made a significant mistake in my choice of supplier. Marine.co  The MD assured me it would be in Airlie Beach within in 7 days.  Three weeks later after a great effort tracking it down It was delivered to my nominated address BUT the sender had not put my name on the unit so I had to go to great lengths trying to convince the owner of the yard that it was for me.  The suppler had by now taken off with my funds and washed his hand so was not answering his phone.

OK Have outboard and inflatable RIB so we can now visit the islands and enjoy the "Best cruising grounds in the world"  Oh no they are not.  Crowded with charter catamarans with people who think that it is a large RV and no seamanship knowledge.  The moorings are in the best places so a normal vessel has to anchor outside in the deep water.

The wind blew and it rained for almost 3 weeks as we tried to put on a brave face and enjoy the sunny tropical paradise of Queensland.  In the end Denny decided rightly so she would return to the warmth of our Canberra house and flew out on the big bird (Jetstar) after a significant delay back to Canberra.

I the set off for Bundaberg to haul Malua and get the 100 m of Australian chain galvinized. The haul-out went well with a 3 coats of anti-foul and a top side polish I was back in the water in 3 days but no chain.  The local Chandler had stuffed up the delivery of the chain and it would only be delivered the next week so I was left in the water no marina berth and no chain to attach my anchor to so I could anchor in the river.

I took my 28mm nylon rode  and attached it to my very best 35kg Brunzel anchor.  It lasted the first night but then at dawn on the second the wind had come up to 20 knots the tide was running in and the anchor alarm went off.  I was drifting up river with the current and the anchor was dragging through the mud.  At some point the anchor got round the keel and the full force of the water was side on to Malua as the rode strained against the sharp edge of the keel.  I did not start the engine expecting the nylon rode to get round the prop so I sat and waited for the tide to turn.  I did not wait long and bang the nylon snapped and I drifted towards the river bank.  I haul in the the short line and motor up river to potentially the calm of the river at Bundaberg city.

I have three other anchors on board but no chain so what was I going to do?  The Danforth was the best option for the mud but after a few minute it too started to drag.  I picked up someones mooring and set the Danforth over the stern with some dive weights to keep the rode along the bottom.  This held while for the next few days I worked out how to get my chain from the factory to the boat.

I selected a wharf and asked the owner if I could come alongside at high tide to load the chain which he kindly agreed.  Now to get the chain from the factory.  As we say in Australia the chandelier came good and delivered the chain to the wharf.  I loaded the chain and attached my big SQR and Malua was again fit for the sea.

Now the trip home.  That will have to wait for another day.

Preparations

Somehow COVID changed the settings on adventure and journeys because when I thought about sailing north to Queensland during the winter in New South Wales I found the Malua needed a few extra things and some testing to make sure that she was ship shape like Bristol.

The first obvious one was the wind indicator.  The years spinning at the top of the mast in rain, shine and in some cases snow, the unit was giving intermittent readings.  It would work for weeks on end then stop.  So I had to reset the relay and hope it would come up and give me the vital piece of information - the wind strength.  I had been up and down the mast so many times I lost count so in the end I took it down, collected the wind digital display and installed it on my workbench at home along with a 12 volt fan to turn the cups.  The instrument after a good overhaul work perfectly on the bench in Canberra.  OK so it it did not work when installed at the mast head then it must be the cable from the top of the mast to the navigation station.  I tested that and found that all wires were good BUT when I connected the wind instrument it did not register even a breath of wind.

Simrad had long discontinued the top of the mast wind indicator and moved to the more modern NMEA 2000 so that avenue was closed off – even the second hand market gave no results.  The search was on for a unit which would interface to my instruments and the chartplotter without a full time conversation unit.  I found one at Digital Yachts which according to the specifications met all my need.  I looked to source the unit in Australia and found CJ Smith, a chandler in Melbourne according to their web site had one in stock and ready to ship the next day to arrive If I paid a little extra within 5 days.  Out with the cc and purchased the unit.  Wait, wait, then phone calls.  “Where is my unit?”  I will get back to you…. Sorry it is not in stock, we have your money but will not refund it but it will be shipped to you next week.  Wait, wait.  “Where is my unit?”  Sorry there has been a mix up and we are expecting it in a few weeks.  “What? Cancel the order and refund my money.”  Sorry we cant do that at this stage because we have ordered it via the agent here in Australia from the UK.  “Why did your website say it was in stock?”  That is only and indicative position…..

I will not bore you with the details because we have all gone through this before where Australian chandlers say they have the goods but in fact they are just an indent agent ordering from the over seas supplier.  If you had cone to the original manufacturer you may have got the unit within a week.  So how long did CJ Smith take to deliver the wind instrument? One month? Two months? No there is more... They took more than three months to deliver the unit.

Thankfully when the unit arrived I tried it on the workbench and it worked and then off to Malua to install it at the mast head.  A local live-aboard helped push the electric winch to pull me to the top of the mast and scoffed all my chocolate biscuits as he waited for me to come down.  Thanks mate “You own me big time” Oh yes why? My time.  But that is another story.

The unit fitted as per specifications and worked first time I connected it to the network, display instruments and to my Raspberry Pi and was able to display wind reading on all units.  I was happy and ready to set sail.

You may ask why it took me so long to prepare to sail to Queensland that is just one example. There are others but finally Malua was ready and a weather window opened along with a full moon and Malua set off north.  I had Jim G on board for the three day trip to the Gold Coast.