Corsica Sardinia Update

Corsica

The sail to the Sardinia West coast was easy. This was Denny's first long passage where she would have to stand watch alone with only Harry on board. We had chosen a full moon which came up on the first night while Denny was on watch - she thought that it was a large ship appearing over the horizon. We carried the reacher for a full day with the wind abarft of the beam but then the wind dropped and we had to motor the last few miles round the north west cape into the Golfo dell Asinara. We had difficulty finding a place to anchor because of the marine reserves. The next day we set off for Bonifacio in Corsica.

I did not have any chart for this area and my chart plotter's charts ran out a few miles to the east. In preparation I had copied Google Earth map of the coast and the port and had the waypoints plus CMap charts on the computer but I had no depths or real detail. The Bonifacio Straits are very busy with shipping and are supposed to have a fearful reputation for severe weather. We traversed the straits in almost a flat calm and arrived at the port just as a ferry was exiting. The moorings were quite full but we were able to pull alongside a French yacht.

Bonifacio is where Nelson hid the English fleet after the battle of the Nile. Nelson though it was a great place but the French negotiated to keep Corsica. It has a lovely French feel to the town, shops and restaurants. We dined out here but were disappointed in the choice and quality of the food. Again the wine featured in our shopping list. The harbour is overlooked by a magnificent walled city and fort which we visited.

Sardinia

We set out with Dennis and Jo on Aurora who I had heard in the Pacific in the Port to Port Rally in 2004. It is a small world the sailing community.

We left them in the Fornelli passage and sailed to La Madealena to get a cruising permit only to realise that it was Sunday and everything was closed. This is the naval headquarters of the NATO task force and therefore dominated by the USA both on the water and in the slums of the town. Not a nice place to be.

We spent the night in a small bay then beat a hasty retreat out of the area towards supposedly the best sailing grounds in the world at Porto Cervo where the Aga Khan has built a very up market marina and resort. We went ashore to find the place deserted except for the shop girls in the exclusive boutiques lined up next to each other in the tastefully decorated mall.

The port is the most expensive in the Med. On race day it must be great if you are part of a sponsored team but for us anchoring out in the bay it is just ordinary.

On the 8 May we upped anchor and set sail across the Tyrrhenian Sea for Rome.

Balerics Update

Mallorca

After visiting the Watson Smith extended family in Wales and England we flew to Palma on Mallorca to wait the arrival of the Erasmusgracht. We checked into a out of town apartment where we could cook our food and unpack all the things we carried in our bags. We spent the week or so visiting the old city of Palma built by the Romans in the C4 but flourished under the moors eventually coming under the Spanish rule. The Gothic cathedral built in 1230 dominates the city and overlooks the waterfront. The harbour is filled with yachts and cruisers. They range in size from 40 feet to 100 meters. Just when you think that you have seen the largest along comes another which is larger. There is no room for the casual cruiser to moor so you have to find a spot and negotiate with the Mariner manager on the spot.

We off loaded Malua and found a spot at Marina Alboran which had a number of charter yachts which were coming and going so as one left we slipped in. The people were very helpful. It is located right on the main drag near a chandler where I was able to purchase a few odds and ends. The supermarket was up the road so Denny and I were, after a few trips with our wheeled suitcase able to restock the boat.

Note: when shipping from Australia stock you vessel with all the goods you require for your cruise right down to engine oil, cleaning agents and tins of food. Don't bother with taking tinned Italian tomatoes or Spanish olive oil. The customs don't care and the shipping company doesn't either. You may save some money but you will save a lot of time and have the brands you are familiar with. The same applies with yachting goodies although the chandlers in Palma have the range and depth of the best in the world. Docking warps are cheap.

While in Palma visit the Cathedral, Arab baths, the old city and the Museu de Mallorca with the statuette of the 4th c warrior in bronze which is just the greatest. The castle on the hill and the art gallery of Joan Miro are all must see visits as is the train ride inland to Soller with the Picasso pottery and pictures.

On 5 April 2007 we set sail from Palma and sailed along the coast to the bay where we had rented the apartment then eastwards to Palma Nova and onto the port of Andratx - the oldest harbour and marina in the area. We anchored out and took the bikes ashore in the RIB to ride up the valley to the old town. Bike paths where provided next to the highway but our experience was that the drivers were very careful and courteous to people on bicycles. After a days riding we sat on the waters edge in one of the many cafe and had a few cold ones before returning to Malua anchored a stones through away.

Note: I purchased a LED anchor light and fitted it at the mast head next to the VHF radio antenna. It puts out such bad radio interference that you have to switch off the radio. Either locate the LED in a different spot or get a different type - how do you test.

From the south west coast we sailed across the Bay of Palma and past the C Blanco to the very narrow inlet Cala Pi. What an experience. There is bareply enough room to turn you yacht when you get in but with the help of Tim on Lady H we were able to drop anchors fore and aft and secure Malua ahead of his vessel. The sides of the cala rise steep out of the water and give you protection from the wind but not the swell. Fortunately there was no swell and we had a great night however the following night when we repeated the process the swell came in at 2:00 am and we spent a very uncomfortable night being thrown around by the waves bouncing off the side of the cliff face only meters from us. We were relived to see the sun rise and leave the washing machine.

The east coast of Majorca has a number of wonderful bays - cala ranging in size from very small to quite large. They are less than a half days sail and the holding is always good. Some even have marinas. Our favorite is Porto Colom where we moored Med style along the harbour wall. It became obvious that a gangplank is required if you wish to step off your yacht on to the quay with any sort of dignity. Malua not having one I set about making one from a ladder I purchased and filling in the rungs with a long strip of marine ply found at the local ship builder. A low cost option which will double as a ladder when on the hard.

We Cala hopped north up the coast towards warmer weather because the wind was always cold and the nights required at least a jumper and a blanket on the bed. Puerto de Cala Ratjada is the furthest point north on the east coast. We pulled in along side the outer harbour wall. The town is clustered around the harbour which has a few fishing vessels, ferries and small boats. The next day we set off for Menorca.

Menorca

Our first open water sail. We set off with no wind and a clear horizon but as we crossed the channel a thick fog descended on us. The radar gave some comfort as the freighters passed ahead and astern of us. Then just as soon as it arrived it evaporated and we could see our destination in the high cliffs of Menorca.

Ciudadela has a very narrow entrance then opens out just wide enough for an inter island ferry to turn. Being early in the season we were able to secure a mooring berth right in front of the best restaurant on the water front along side Velshedia with Graham and Mary Pay from Dorset (new grandparents).

The city has a very Arab influence although in 1558 it was over run by the Turks. The old city was built with narrow streets, many of which lead to a dead end so you have to keep you wits about you. The market with a covered arcades is great. The shopping experience is out in the industrial area which we reached by bike. Here there are many factory outlets selling shoes and leather goods.

Menorca is exceptionally rich in megalithic structures built around 1500 BC. these are Taulas - T shaped stones, Navetas - boat shaped structures and Talayots buildings. We spent two wonderful days riding through the country side visiting these sites. One the oldest existing building.

Reluctantly we left Ciudadela and sailed clockwise to the north of the island to Fornells. Most people sail through the south. We continues round the island to the famous port of Moa or Mahon which was prized by Lord Nelson who though it would be the centre of the British Med fleet however the politicians decided that Malta would be the place and Mahon is now small commercial port visited by cruise liners, ships and the yachts passing east or west across the Med.

We moored stern to a floating pontoon on the northern part of the narrow bay. It was a great place to take the RIB to the shore and climb the steps up to the old town. From here we rode our bikes into the country side to see the Taulas and Talayots. The provisioning is good here either in the old town or out of town at the supermarket. I stocked up with a few bottles of Spanish wine which at 1 to 2 Euro a bottle is excellent value and very drinkable. Malua's waterline is down.

We were waiting for a weather window to sail the 220nm to Sardinia but the moon was full, the wind in the right direction so we set sail a 9:30 for the two night and three days crossing. A great sail eastwards.